Tracing the Ancient Srivijaya Kingdom's History in Surat Thani

Ta Poh Beach

The mainland Suratthani has always been a dream travel destination both for nature and culture lovers. While the Khao Sok National Park and Ratchaprapa Dam boost the wildlife wonders and stunning landscapes, some areas of this southern province, namely Chaiya district, offer archaeological sites that can really keep a historical buff’s sightseeing schedule busy for a day or two. As Suratthani was a part of the ancient Srivijaya kingdom, the province is dotted with the remnants from the past as old as the Khmer’s Angkor civilization – some, well-preserved or kept in museums, while others are left to be discovered even on your nature trails. 

Srivijaya Kingdom in Brief 

The ancient Srivijaya kingdom spread over the lower part of the Malay Peninsula and some islands of Indonesia. A stone inscription written in 1318 B.E. found in Suratthani confirms the Srivijaya kingdom dates to back at least 1,300 years ago.   

The kingdom’s strong economy and constantly extended territory gave an opportunity for art and culture to prosper to its best. Mahayana Buddhism reigned and the kingdom’s seaside towns along Malacca Strait turned important trading posts between Chinese merchants from the east and Indian and Arabian ones from the west of the strait.

Statues of Bodhisattva Buddha, pieces of Chinese porcelain, and Indian found scattering the coast of the Malay Peninsula have helped the archaeologists completed the picture of the kingdom. Among those important sites the archaeologists still work on unearthing similar objects are Thailand’s southern provinces especially Chaiya district of Suratthani.

Discovering It

As we arrived in Suratthani, Phra Borom That Chaiya Chedi was the first site we visited for our journey back through time. Phra Borom That Chaiya serves as a fine example of Srivijaya's influence on religious architecture. The chedi now houses Buddha relics and is one of the most important landmarks of the city. In the courtyard of the chedi, sculptures and Buddha images made from sandstones date back to the Ayutthaya period, 400 years ago.

Then we left the chedi and headed out to Chaiya district. After an hour we arrived in Phum Riang, a cozy and quiet Muslim village which was the city center before the proper province’s map was drawn and the present downtown was settled. Suratthani’s first cinema is one of the remnants from the era. A fire caught the building that now leaves only the ghostly structure. It reminded me of a movie setting.  

Anyway, we didn’t come here for a movie. Phum Riang Village is famous for silk weaving, the tradition passed down over hundreds of years. Silk weaving was one of the industries apart from fishing and rice farming brought by Muslim people resettling 400 years ago from Ayutthaya kingdom north of Bangkok. Female villagers weaved cloth with Chinese silk threads which were later transported in Chinese junks to be sold in other regions, lending the village fame as a center of fine silk weaving. The weavers now use threads from Japan and local silkworm farms, completing the tasks with the unrivaled skills that been passed on from their older generations

The old-fashioned looms here are the same style used by hand-weaving industry nationwide. To one corner, I found an even more traditional loom now stands as an object of exhibition. Dust indicated it had been retired. I was told, in the earlier days this loom produced much more complicated and detailed patterns. It’s sad the ladies who really knew how to use it aren’t here anymore. 

Auntine Wanma, the unofficial leader of the weaving village showed me the complete cloth of different patterns.  A cloth can take up from 2 days to 2 months to complete depending on how complicated the patterns are. It seemed that all the painstaking process pays off, if not with the payment, then it must be with the impression they create to anyone who hold these cloth in their hands. All of them were simply beautiful.

The auntie started weaving as young as 15. Now 65, she finds it hard to sit her granddaughters or nieces down and repeat the teaching process her granny did to her. She used to own almost a hundred looms in her shop. Now there are only 25 left as the weavers get too old and there isn’t much demand in the market any more. Auntie Wanma isn’t sure about the future of her shop, and none was the other few shop owners in the area. 

Ta Poh Beach is a walkable distance from the village. We got there just in time to see fishermen leaving and coming back for their night and day catches. And while some of the catches go to the nearby wet markets, some are left on stalls for the local who prefer their dinner to still be alive.    

Apart from hosting a big seafood market on weekends, Ta Poh preserves historical significance as an ancient port from Srivijaya to Ayutthaya periods. Indian, Arabian, and Chinese junks stopped here, traded, and also reloaded fresh water from the wells which are now dotting the park and area along the coast. 

And as if bumping into some ancient wells in random places wasn’t cool enough, we strolled on the beach and found even more surprising pieces from the history. Shells and bio trashes are not the only things brought here by the waves, pieces of porcelains from sunk junks years ago managed to make their way to this beach as well.

We picked lots of the pieces up and had lots of fun guessing where they came from and what the stories behind them could be. But then, we returned them to the sea. Not bringing them home is the key to keep this precious outdoor museum alive.  

As the sun started to disappeared, we were surrounded only by local families chilling out on the beach and in the park. The only sounds that broke the silence around us were the kids’ laughers and the fisherman boats’ engines. Ta Poh doesn’t have the turquoise water and chilling-out bars to impress me, but why would I want those when it was such as privilege to get to soak up the serenity and almost had the beach all to myself? 

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The Living Museum of Mae Hong Son's Downtown

Chong Kham and Chong Klang Temples

Nestled in the rolling high mountains of the Shan Hills in the north of Thailand, the isolated Mae Hong Son (MHS) valley province is a destination known for slow life paces and ways of life that has changed only little through time. Strolling the 6 sq. km. MHS downtown offers a chance to see cultural identities of its mixed-ethnic residents become alive through century-old teak-wood houses, food stalls, dialectic words of items whose official Thai language names don’t exist, ethnic costumes daily worn, and colorful festivals. The town has seen modern infrastructure and experienced impacts of fast growing tourism, unfortunately, the fate shared even by remote villages in the country, but the local have preserved their cultural identities so strongly enough visitors only find it unique and unrivaled by anywhere else.

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The official settlement on the plain where downtown MHS is today was first recognized in 1831 when a king of Chiang Mai, a prominent city at the time, ordered a village built - assigning a village leader and having him invite Tai Yai and other hill tribal people, namely Karen, Lua, Lahu who had been living around the plain to build cottages on it. With Tai Yai as the major population of the village, the nowadays downtown is dominated by their culture with the presence of other tribal identities here and there. 

The rising of chic boutique hotels and coffee shops in the downtown is the result of the tourism that arrived only less than a decade ago. Nevertheless, blending the new in while preserving the old, the local have crafted a perfect picture of the town harmoniously co-existed by originality and cutting-edge facilities shelled in the original appearance, a quite rare character in northern Thailand’s tourist destinations.

To understand the cultural background of MHS downtown and plan your sightseeing tour, visit MHS Living Museum Information Center an old teakwood 2-storey house tugged at Singhanatbamrung street. The center offers insightful information, colorful illustrations and pictures of downtown building’s architecture, local food and festivals, and many more. Pictures of the town’s older days and cute postcards adorn the walls while models of old houses scatter the second floor with detailed explanation on the old house renovation project. The staffs, always in Tai Yai colorful clothes, speak great English and are very helpful. Brochures and maps are available for free grabs to give you an orientation before setting your foot to explore the town yourself. 

MHS Living Museum Information Center

Living It

Old House Architecture To the left and the right of the Information Center is strips of teakwood houses aging minimum 50 years old. Most of the houses follow Tai Yai architecture of ruen chua diew (one roof) and ruen faed (double roof). In October, you may see chong para, a paper model of Tai Yai temples hanging on the second-floor balcony of these houses, signaling the end of Buddhist Lent. While the ones on the backstreets along Singhanatbamrung remain pure residence, the up-front ones have been turned into stores, restaurants, and coffee shops. Anyamanee, built in 1895, now sells souvenirs, Tai Yai accessories and clothes. Hern Yai Kaew serves coffee and fusion dishes. At Singhanatbamrung intersection, a funky pub called Crossroad serves European dishes and is popular among bikers.

An Old Teak-wood House Turned into A Coffee Shop

Tai Yai Cuisine Served with steamed rice and fresh veggies, Tai Yai dishes incorporates lots of Thai herbs and smelly beans (fermented ground soybeans shaping like discs) as the main ingredients. At the morning Sia Yood market, find your breakfast stalls of tua pu aun (hot chick pea noodle soup), khao raem fin (Tai Yai bean curd), khanom cheen nam ngiew (rice noodles with spicy pork sauce), and many more. Then there are stand-alone restaurants with recipes passed down for generations. At Aunt Sri Bua Tai Yai restaurant (51, Singhanatbamrung st, tel. 053 612 471), try her signatures nua dung (spicy pork balls mixed with aromatic herbs) and kai aub (baked chicken curry). For sweet tooth, head to Aunt Manee Tai Yai Sweets (down the alley where Aunt Sri Bua’s is), desserts such as alawa (rice pudding with coconut milk and sugarcane, suay tamin (steamed sticky rice with coconut milk topped with a contrasting layer of hard sugar) come in a mouthful size banana-leaf wraps. 

Ethic Costumes Apart from the Thursday Campaign when all government officials wear traditional Tai Yai costumes to work, the night market around the downtown Chong Kham Swamp hosts stalls whose ethnic-race owners usually adorn themselves with the best tribal costumes. Usually spotted are the Black Lahu with black shirts and pants of red, blue and white stripes on the arms and legs, Hmong with colorful velvet textile embroidered with glittering beads, among others.  

A Black Lahu Lady 

Tai Yai Temples The Tai Yai temples of Chong Kham and Chong Klang are the center of reverence and venues for festivals year-round. Facing Chong Kham Swamp, the left-side Chong Kham and the right-side Chong Klang share the same wall which makes them look like one big monastery. Influenced by Burmese temple architecture, both are famous for tiered roof adorned with plates of elaborately carved galvanized iron coated in silver or gold color. Chong Kham, built in 1797, is MHS’s first temple and hosts a Buddha relics pagoda while Chong Klang has a small museum in the temple’s hall exhibiting wood carvings, statues, and paintings by Burmese artisans.        

Beeswax Candles 

Roof Ornament, Carved Galvanized Iron 

A Wooden Carved Wall, Chong Klang Temple

An Angel Statue in Chong Klang's Burmese Wooden Statue Museum

Tiered Roof, Chong Klang Temple

 Festivals The backwater town of MSH turns alive with certain annual festivals. Poi Sang Long, on April 13 – 15, sees a long procession of novices with cleanly shaven heads adorned themselves with Burmese prince-like garment, valuable jewels and gems riding horses or carried over men’s shoulders through the town. Perd Muang Tai, in early December, summarizes ways of life of MHS’s 7 ethnic groups via a traditional house exhibition, stage dances, a food and local product fair.

Fireworks and Lanterns, Perd Muang Tai Festival

A Hill Tribe's House Mock-Up, Perd Muang Tai Festival

Make it Happen! 

When to Go

Best time to visit MHS is from November to February when the weather is dry and mild, with the average temperature of 25 - 27˚C. For trekkers, early November sees wild flower blossoms and July to September sees rice fields turn green.

Getting There

From Chiang Mai (CM) there are two bus routes to Mae Hong Son. The northern route through Pai (270 km) takes 6-7 hours and the southern route via Mae Sariang takes 7-8 hours. Buses via Pai leave CM bus arcade 12 times a day from 6:30am to 4pm and the ones via Mae Sariang leave 7 times day from 6:30am to 9pm.

Alternatively, Nor Air flies from CM to MHS 3 times a day. Check the flight schedule at www.nokair.com.

Where to stay

MHS downtown offers plenty of mid-range accommodation for its small size. The Residence@MHS (T:053 614 100) is MHS’s first boutique hotel with rooms tastefully decorated with teak furniture. Piya Guesthouse (T:053 611 260) sitting in front of Chong Kham Swamp which is considered the town center offers very clean, heavily furnished rooms with TVs and air-con. Ngamta Hotel (T:053 612 794) at the junction of Khunlumpapas Road has reasonable rates and a central location, with spotless and nicely decorated rooms that all come with air-con, hot shower, TV and fridge. 

Where to Eat

The night market stretching from the swamp to Khunlumpapas Road is a good place to forage local Tai Yai food, grilled chicken and fish served with somtam or spicy papaya salad. There is also a strip of bars and restaurants in front of the swamp itself. Fern MHS Restaurant (T: 053 611374; 87, Khunlumpapas Rd.) serves Tai Yai, Thai, and European dishes in antique house, popular among tour groups.   

Grilled Fermented Pork and Egg in Banana Wraps, Night Market

Sesame Sticks, Traditional Tai Yai Dessert, Night Market

 

A Souvenir Stall, Night Market

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Surat Thani’s Best Temples and Dining Spots

Surat Thani is the name that you might not hear much of compared to Samui, Tao, Pa Ngan – the popular island destinations. Actually, not many know that the islands belong to this province’s territory. We got a chance to explore the mainland of Surat Thani and discovered that despite the lack of luring beach paradises, it makes a wonderful holiday escape because of its strong local Thai culture, the slow pace of life, beautiful rain forest, and the fact that it sees much less visitors. You can easily spend a few days here if you look for a change of air from the islands. 

Surat Thani province today is now home to just over a million people. Translated ‘the city of good people,’ the name Surat Thani was bestowed by King Rama 6 who noted the intense devotion of the locals to Buddhism and that the city’s landscape was similar to Surat, a city in India which he visited. In 2015, the city will celebrate the 100^th year anniversary since it was named, even though it actually ages much more than that! The first civilization found in Surat Thani date back as far as 1,200 years ago when the city was a part of the ancient Sri Vichai kingdom.

We started our morning off in Chai Ya district at the peaceful Wat Suan Mokkh, Thailand’s famous forest Dharma hermitage. Founded in 1932 by Buddhadasa Bhikkhu, a renowned and influential ascetic-philosopher, the hermitage is well-known as a meditation center and for learning religious study and practices for both Thai and international seekers.    

We arrived just in time to see the monks and devotees taking breakfast. Every day at 8 o’clock, the monks gather at the dining hall, take their alms from the shared food-carrying cart while the devotees chant the prayers.

Eating out of the alms bowls, Suan Mokkh

 Life at Wat Suan Mokkh starts as early as 4 in the morning. Days are spent mostly on anapanasati meditation which focuses on the quiet awareness of one's breathing pattern while other time is devoted to cleaning the temple’s facilities, self-studying, and listening to the monks’ preaching. 

Wat Suan Mokkh makes a great visit even though you’re not registered for the retreat program. Peace seekers usually find it a perfect refuge even if they are here only for a short time. The temple’s facilities sit in the jungle’s area of 23 acres shaded by tall Moke and other trees, and wild looking vines. It has the excellent atmosphere for assembling with nature and is a fine reminder to devotees of a simple life. Stone sculptures, objects, and sign boards with Dharma written on will only make you ponder on life and carry you closer to the peaceful state of mind.

The Theatre of Spiritual Entertainment displays pictures of Dharma riddles of different religions and doctrines. It’s nice to let the paintings drive your imagination and in the same time absorb the intellectual messages.

A wall painting in the Theater of Spiritual Entertainment, Suan Mokkh

Dharma Hall is a multi-purpose building now used to accommodate visiting monks. Human skeletons and other objects are to gently remind the audience to rid themselves of vanity, materialism, and so on.  

Towards one side of Suan Mokkh, there is a pond with a sole coconut tree growing in the middle. Nalikae Pond looks like a normal fresh water source but it is actually symbolic. The coconut tree symbolizes Nirvana which exists amidst the circle of birthand death.

In the Buddhadasa’s Hall, the monk’s picture stands prominently amidst the books he wrote and cassettes recorded during his preaching. He was an innovative reinterpreter of Buddhist doctrine and Thai folk beliefs. Through his life, he worked to produce a complete set of references for present and future research and practice. His approach was known to be scientific, straight-forward, and practical.

On the way out of Suan Mokkh, we found a natural spring. Busier in early morning, it now sees a few locals dropping by with their cars to take a bath. The water feels warm and comfortable. One pipe releases the mineral hot water from the mountain while the other regularly draws the water out of the pond to create a flow.

A hot spring near Suan Mokkh

In the afternoon, we left Chai Ya district and headed back to Surat Thani’s downtown. Pattanaram Temple is another sacred site of the local Buddhists. A hundred-year-old temple hall is surrounded by the guard statues, some are of giants, and some of the soldiers. If you take a closer look to the soldiers’ faces, you’ll see they are of different races. This confirms to the historians how Surat Thani a hundred years back were a prominent port city full of multi-national visitors.

Sitting further from the monastery’s entrance is the mausoleum of Luang Poh Pat. The miracle that happens to his corpse is the word of mouth that brings hundreds of Buddhist devotees a day. It’s said any wishes made in front of him always become true.

And then it was time for dinner. We decided the downtown night markets would were the best places to forage. Narit Bridge Pier is a short dining promenade lined up with cook to order, somtam and grilled chicken, and numerous fruit stalls. From this point you can also catch night ferries that leave around 11 to arrive on Samui, Tao, and Pa Ngan islands in the morning.

In the same time the promenade started to become alive, the San Chao night market was already way super busy.

A dessert stall at Narit Bridge Pier Promenade 

A coffee cart, Narit Bridge Pier Promenade

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